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Problematic Panels: What You Need to Know About Hazardous Electric Panel Brands

When it comes to home inspections, one critical aspect that requires careful attention is the electrical panel. Often referred to as the “heart” of a home’s electrical system, the panel distributes electricity throughout the house. However, not all electric panels are created equal. Some brands have gained notoriety for their potential hazards and safety risks. In this blog post, we will explore the world of problematic electric panels, the risks associated with them, and why it’s crucial for homeowners to be aware of these potential dangers.

  1. Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) Panels: One of the most well-known problematic electric panel brands is Federal Pacific Electric (FPE). Commonly installed in homes between the 1950s and 1980s, FPE panels have a troubling history. They were found to have significant design and manufacturing flaws, leading to a higher risk of electrical fires. In some cases, FPE breakers failed to trip during an overload or short circuit, resulting in overheating and potential electrical hazards. Homeowners with FPE panels are advised to have them replaced by a qualified electrician to ensure their safety.
  2. Zinsco Panels: Another brand associated with safety concerns is Zinsco. Manufactured from the 1940s to the 1970s, Zinsco panels were installed in many homes across North America. Over time, these panels developed issues with their breaker connections, leading to potential overheating, arcing, and electrical failures. Zinsco panels have been deemed outdated and unsafe, and experts recommend replacing them to prevent electrical hazards.
  3. Bulldog Pushmatic Panels: While Bulldog Pushmatic panels were popular in the 1950s through the 1980s, they too have been linked to safety risks. These panels feature unique breakers that don’t use traditional toggles. Instead, they use a push-button mechanism. Over time, these buttons can become worn or damaged, making it challenging to reset breakers or shut off power during emergencies. Homeowners with Bulldog Pushmatic panels should consider replacing them to ensure the safe operation of their electrical system.
  4. Challenger Panels: Challenger panels, manufactured between the 1960s and 1980s, have also raised concerns among electricians and home inspectors. These panels suffered from design flaws, including bus bars that were prone to corrosion and breakers that failed to trip when necessary. Overheating and electrical malfunctions could occur, leading to potential fire hazards. Replacing Challenger panels with modern, safer alternatives is recommended for homeowners.

Conclusion: When it comes to the safety of your home, knowledge is power. Understanding the potential risks associated with problematic electric panel brands is crucial for homeowners. If you suspect that your home may have one of these hazardous panels, it’s important to consult with a qualified electrician or schedule a professional home inspection. A professional inspection will identify any issues and recommend the necessary steps to mitigate risks and ensure the safety of your electrical system. Remember, investing in the maintenance and upgrade of your electrical panel is a small price to pay for the peace of mind and safety of your home and loved ones.

Avoid Freezing Pipes

Frozen pipe

Like last year, temperatures are again reaching single digits.
Just because you have not had any problems since you have lived in your home, doesn’t mean you won’t now. Everyone is at risk….regardless of how new your home is, however, homes built before the 80’s are particularly susceptible.

Biggest risks (in order of incidence of problems)
• Exterior faucets (aka “hose bib”)
• Pipes in Crawl spaces
• Pipes in garages or other unheated spaces
• Pipes in exterior walls

EVERYONE should do ALL the following:

1. Main Shut Off: Know where your main water shut-off is to your home. There are TWO locations, ONE is INSIDE the meter box by the street (you need a special tool…)…and the other should be (Basement) just inside the exterior foundation wall, where the main water line enters from the street or (Crawlspace) in the crawl or next to the water heater or (Slab) next to the water heater.

2. Outside Faucets: Find the inside valve or “cut-off” to all exterior faucets and shut them off.

• Often located near the wall, drop ceiling or cabinet where the faucet is located but also can be a distance away near a utility area.

• Valve is usually a circular handle, (“tighty-righty” & “loosey-lefty”) but can be a lever (lever shut off position is at a 90 degree angle to the pipe)

• Once the inside valve is shut off, OPEN the faucet on the OUTSIDE. This will allow any water in the pipe to exit and leave none to freeze.

• If it’s “too late” and you are already frozen….grab a hair dryer, extension cord and some mittens and heat it until it the outside faucet opens up.

• Insulate or wrap the outside faucet/hose-bib

• Hardware stores sell a half-sphere Styrofoam deal that attaches to your faucet.

Most should also do the following:

1. Leave your water running on the INSIDE faucets. If it’s going to be single digit temps, do a slight run, not just a drip.
2. Open any interior cabinets where there is plumbing at an exterior wall…This is usually a kitchen or bath. This will allow more heat in where plumbing is.
3. Crawlspace or other less insulated/conditioned areas: be sure all pipes are insulated.

Sealing your home

Weather stripping

As temperatures drop, energy bills can climb higher.  Take a walk around your home and check the weather stripping on doors and windows.  Also, check to see how well the trim (on the exterior) around doors and windows is sealed (caulked).  Making improvements in these areas is cheap and easy enough to do yourself.

Additionally, check the temperature of the hot water in your home.  You can do this by using a basic meat thermometer and just hold it under the hot water faucet.  Hot water need be no hotter than 125 degrees.  If it’s hotter than this, your energy expenses will lower as you lower the temperature.

News from LG&E

LG&E Service

COUNTING ON

 

YOU

 

At LG&E, we’re dedicated to providing you with safe and reliable power, but we need your help when damage occurs that causes you to lose power. We count on you to make the necessary repairs to any customer-owned electrical equipment so we can restore your power as quickly and safely as possible. If you have overhead electrical service, the diagram to the left illustrates the parts of the electric service that are considered your responsibility as well as those that are our responsibility.

Customer responsibility

Contact a licensed electrician to repair these areas.

  1. Weatherhead/masthead. The vertical pipe-like structure attached to the top of the meter box.
  2. Meter base, which is the box, meter socket and any wiring inside the box.
  3. Items or cables that secure the masthead and/or box to your home.
  4. Attachment point (eyebolt, etc.) that secures the electric service drop.

LG&E responsibility

If you find damage to any of the following areas, call us and we will make the repairs.

  1. Electric distribution poles.
  2. Transformers.
  3. Electric lines within the right-of-way.
  4. Service drop. This is the cable that runs from the utility pole to your home.
  5. Meter (glass-enclosed

DID YOU KNOW…

you are required to notify LG&E if you have installed or plan to install a generator that runs on natural gas for use during an electric power outage? Doing so will help us to provide an adequate supply of natural gas to serve you when you need your natural gas-fired generator. Contact our Customer Service Department for additional information or to notify us of your current and future plans for a natural gas generator.

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