Did you know that there was a change regarding how home inspectors are required to report on carbon monoxide detectors? ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) added the requirement, in March of 2014, that home inspectors that use the ASHI standards are required to report the absence of a carbon monoxide detector in a home.
Between 400-500 persons each year die from carbon monoxide poisoning.
It’s not uncommon to have home buyers see dark staining in homes and have concern that it may be mold. There is an occurrence not known to most home buyers called “ghosting” that can cause dark stains in many areas of a home.
Indoor air contains different types of particles from both indoor and outdoor sources. These particles will eventually land on interior surfaces through a variety of ways. When they build up, they cause a staining (can appear on walls, floors, ceilings, appliances, etc).
This can happen due to smokers in the house, gas burning appliances in the house, candle use or just pressure differentials in walls that cause the carpet to act as a filter as air passes through it.
To read more in depth, go to the web site link below.
http://www.ct.gov/dph/lib/dph/environmental_health/eoha/pdf/technical_brief_ghosting.pdf
The part of the floor you see sits on top of the subfloor. That is, in turn, supported by large boards called joists. If there aren’t enough screws holding the subfloor to the joists or if for other reasons there are gaps between the joists and the subfloor, squeaking can occur. You can fill these gaps with hardwood shims if you have access to the subfloor from below (if it’s unfinished).
If you don’t have access from below, you can pick up a “squeak away” from the hardware store and fix from the top side of the floor.
Like last year, temperatures are again reaching single digits.
Just because you have not had any problems since you have lived in your home, doesn’t mean you won’t now. Everyone is at risk….regardless of how new your home is, however, homes built before the 80’s are particularly susceptible.
Biggest risks (in order of incidence of problems)
• Exterior faucets (aka “hose bib”)
• Pipes in Crawl spaces
• Pipes in garages or other unheated spaces
• Pipes in exterior walls
EVERYONE should do ALL the following:
1. Main Shut Off: Know where your main water shut-off is to your home. There are TWO locations, ONE is INSIDE the meter box by the street (you need a special tool…)…and the other should be (Basement) just inside the exterior foundation wall, where the main water line enters from the street or (Crawlspace) in the crawl or next to the water heater or (Slab) next to the water heater.
2. Outside Faucets: Find the inside valve or “cut-off” to all exterior faucets and shut them off.
• Often located near the wall, drop ceiling or cabinet where the faucet is located but also can be a distance away near a utility area.
• Valve is usually a circular handle, (“tighty-righty” & “loosey-lefty”) but can be a lever (lever shut off position is at a 90 degree angle to the pipe)
• Once the inside valve is shut off, OPEN the faucet on the OUTSIDE. This will allow any water in the pipe to exit and leave none to freeze.
• If it’s “too late” and you are already frozen….grab a hair dryer, extension cord and some mittens and heat it until it the outside faucet opens up.
• Insulate or wrap the outside faucet/hose-bib
• Hardware stores sell a half-sphere Styrofoam deal that attaches to your faucet.
Most should also do the following:
1. Leave your water running on the INSIDE faucets. If it’s going to be single digit temps, do a slight run, not just a drip.
2. Open any interior cabinets where there is plumbing at an exterior wall…This is usually a kitchen or bath. This will allow more heat in where plumbing is.
3. Crawlspace or other less insulated/conditioned areas: be sure all pipes are insulated.
